The Dalmatian Food Culture

While most people find Chinese cuisine delicious, some Chinese food may appear bizarre to many non-Chinese people. My husband frowns every time I talk about chicken feet, one of my favourites. His disgusting expression has misled me. When it comes to local delicacies, Dalmatians are no less "bizarre" than Chinese.

One of our neighbours often invites us over for lunch. Croatian homes are where you taste the authentic local food. It was at the dining table of our neighbour where I recaptured the savour of bovine tripe (known as tripice in Croatian) and pig's ear. My husband's face was distorted on both occasions. Our neighbour was only too happy to see that I relished her food.

I took another glimpse of the traditional food in Dalmatia a few days ago on the TV. The cooks prepared the cuisines right on the spot in a town square. Tripice was again featured in hot soup. (My neighbour served it as salad last time.) Another big hot pot contained either bovine or lamb offal which looked really yummy. The next scene stunned me and led me to yell immediately at my husband, "Dalmatians also eat chicken feet!" Lastly, a cook was grilling several pieces of soft meat of similar size as hamburger. But they were light-brown in colour and oval in shape. Guess what they were? Bovine testis!



Chinese do not find these dishes too strange to swallow as we eat all of them. We are only too happy to find more alliances in the vast culinary world.

Klapa – the Musical Soul of Dalmatia

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

Paulo Coelho, the renowned author of the best-selling novel “The Alchemist” said of the traditional Dalmatian music, "Listening to Dalmatian ‘klapa’ I realized that Croatians have soul that should be shown to the world..."

The term “klapa” is derived from the Dalmatian dialect, meaning “a group of people”. It is a kind of group vocal without instrumental sound. The medieval Gregorian chant is an early example of this musical form. The polyphony of a cappella church music began to develop in Europe between the 15^th and 16^th centuries. Dalmatia, under the Italian influence, gave birth to klapa in the 19^th and 20^th centuries.

Klapa traditionally consists of all male vocalists. A group usually includes five to eight members although there is no strict rule. Modern klapa groups with only female vocalists are often seen nowadays. In addition to the traditional theme of spirituality, klapa singing has become the folk music in Dalmatia. The songs narrate the life stories, the emotional world and even the daily hardships of the Dalmatian people.

Klapa groups often perform on the streets of Dalmatian towns. The amateurs sing with great passion merely for their own pleasure. Klapa singing demands prolonged practice and unsaid cooperation. It is not only a performance of harmonizing the voices, but also an act of connecting the hearts. Both the performers and the audience fall into harmony. No wonder the local people consider friendship an important element of klapa singing. The klapa singers probably even helped each other to win the hearts of their ladies in the old days. Street performers also include those seeking a professional musical career. The klapa groups can show more people their music on one hand. On the other hand, they can sell their own CDs right on the spot.

In Dalmatia, concerts of all sizes cannot do without klapa. The concert “Ne Damo Te Pimso Nasa”, held at the end of every August in Split, gathers the famous klapa groups and musicians. Whenever a popular klapa song is played, the audience immediately joins the performers in chorus. Their singing rocks the stadium.

The Festival of the Dalmatian Klapas held every July in Omiš has played a great part in keeping the Dalmatian musical legacy alive. Many famous klapa groups have contested and won major awards since the festival began in 1967. The old town of Omiš is rather small. St. Michael’s Square, the venue of the event, is hardly grand. The festival itself offers no spectacular lighting and stage effects. Local people are embracing the event ever more simply because it passes on the soul of klapa music. Their forerunners were singing in harmony in the same old squares in their home towns as the musical notes were reverberating between the ancient stone walls.

I experienced live klapa performance formally in a New Year concert in Split. The performer was Klapa Šufit. I have fallen for klapa since then. The human vocal cord is indeed a magical musical instrument. The perfectly harmonized voices simply hypnotize the audience and carry them away.

‘Vilo moja’ by Klapa Crikvenica is my favorite klapa song. I had no idea what the lyric talked about when I first listened to the song. The sadly moving melody has captivated me. The chorus sounds almost like weeping and my heart trembles.

 

The picturesque scenery, together with the heart-stirring music, creates the fascinating Dalmatia.

The Most Famous Beach in Dalmatia - Zlatni rat

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

Zlatni rat, the "Golden Horn", is located near Bol on the island Brač, which is only half an hour by ferry from Split. Most islanders were either fishermen or farmers before tourism became the main industry. Brač is also famous for its stones. The materials for most of the stone houses and churches in Dalmatia were quarried from Brač.   

Although Bol is the oldest settlement on Brač, ferries heading for Brač do not take you directly to Bol but Supetar, the largest town on the island. The so-called “largest town” has some 3,000 residents only. Bol is only half as big. It comes as no surprise that ferries call at Supetar instead of Bol. However, buses from Supetar to Bol are well connected with the ferries in summer: a bus departs for Bol about 20 minutes after a ferry arrives at Supetar.

Supetar itself delivers all is needed in a beach resort. Some holidaymakers would rather not spend an extra hour for getting to Bol. If it is your first summer visit to the island Brač, the unique landscape of Zlatni rat is unlikely to disappoint you.

When our bus arrived at Bol, a sightseeing train was waiting next to the bus station, ready to take the passengers to the beach. Thinking that it was some usual touristic trick, we boarded the train without a second thought anyway as the fare was only 10 Kuna per person. But we were in fact blessed for reaching the beach in the most desirable comfort. The 10-minute ride not only went up and down a slope, it was totally under the heat of the fireball.

Zlatni rat is a pebble beach. It was difficult for us to walk on the shore as well as in the water.  The pebbles were even heated up under the sun. Those lying on the pebbles were indeed sunbathing, literally. The swimming shoes so popular in Croatia could have rescued us: light, anti-slippery and protecting the feet against injury. If you go swimming in Krka National Park or on the island Hvar, the swimming shoes are definitely your saviors on the rocky riverbed or seabed.

There is no better way to get cooled than jumping into the sea. The water around Zlatni rat is so clear that it is transparent. Different shades of blue and green blend into layers of lustrous ribbons farther away from the shore. I simply could not take my eyes off the magical glitter of the azure sea.

Croatian beaches are the paradises to spot handsome guys and pretty girls. Zlatni rat is not a nude beach, but some girls may sunbathe topless. Croatian people have no idea about "skin whitening" at all. They consider a tanned face and body the true beauty. I have never seen any "white" Croatian star, artist or model. Croatian people willingly befriend Apollo. When a Japanese tourist rested on a street in Split with a sunbonnet that looked like a welding mask, her photo appeared on the Split newspaper the next day.

Although I did not detest the sun or use any sun block, I was not crazy for sunbathing as the Europeans were. The sunniest province in Croatia deserved her fame. I did feel a bit dizzy after staying too long under the sun. If it means a lot for your skin to stay white, you’d better apply the skin whitening products thoroughly all over the body including the toes and thenars.

If you want to stay away from both the cool water and the fiery sun, the pine forest is the best place for a rest. In the summertime, it may take you quite a while to find a spot under the shade as Zlatni rat is crowded with holidaymakers. Further uphill from the pine forest is the scenic viewpoint any photographer should not miss. 

Zlatni rat is truly a touristic beach because all the water sports needed to make a great beach resort are available - canoeing, water biking, water-skiing, windsurfing, snorkeling, diving, yacht sailing etc. All the charges typical of a beach resort are also inevitable － beach lockers, showers, sunbath chairs and parasols etc. In fact, we hardly met Croatian vacationers in Zlatni rat as they preferred equally nice beaches free of charge along the Adriatic coast. Bol impressed us with the summer holiday mood – relaxing, pleasing, leisure and carefree. The prices of the local restaurants, cafes and various recreational places reflected the resort styles as well. However, we found the expenses in Bol generally less expensive than in Hvar.

If you wish to have an active holiday away from the hustle and bustle of the city, staying in the old town of Bol will not let you down.

The Best Known Holiday Destination in Croatia: Hvar

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

The name “Hvar” can be confusing to tourists. There is a Hvar Town on Hvar Island, the longest island off the coast of Split. Hvar Town is Croatian most famous holiday destination so often mentioned. The oldest town on Hvar Island, Stari Grad (meaning old city), is never lacking tourists although the city may sound less familiar.

Croatian business owners whose income depends on tourists must make good use of the peak season, which may last for four to five months, to secure their living for the whole year. In Hvar Town, on the island of Brac or in the old city of Trogir, many restaurants and souvenir shops are closed during low season. However, Hvar Town is still a hot choice for many retirees who want to spend a serene and warm winter.

Hvar Town can be reached by taking a 2-hour ferry from Split, followed by a bus ride of 40 minutes. The bus station is very close to the city center. The square Hvar Pjaca, where St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Sveti Stjepana in Croatian) stands, comes immediately into sight. For a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, the biggest square in Dalmatia is indeed big. Hvar was once a flourishing Venetian city. Most of the buildings around the plaza highlight the Renaissance architectural pursuit of beauty in simplicity, harmony, proportion and symmetry. The whole Hvar Pjaca also gives a feeling of simplicity, elegance, succinctness and harmony. Being protected by the Venetian Empire for almost 500 years, Hvar is embellished by the Venetian legacy of public buildings, fortress and town walls. The Provveditore Palace, the former palace of the Venetian head of the island, previously stood on the west end of Hvar Pjaca. The only remains now are part of the old loggia and the clock tower. The two reliefs of the Venetian lion can still be seen clearly on the wall. Being integrated into the Hotel Palace, which was built on the old site of the Provveditore Palace in 1903, the new loggia, with its exquisite neo-Renaissance decorations, now serves as the reception hall of the hotel.

The esplanade (Riva) and the cozy outdoor cafes are indispensable in any Dalmatian city. Hvar’s esplanade also serves as a dock for boats and yachts. When we walked from Riva to the west side of the city, a lot of boat charterers were busy doing business. Some boatmen even indicated that a one-day tour could cover two to three nearby islands.

Looking back from Riva, we found the Spanish Fort (Tvrđava Španjolo) taking a commanding position on top of the hill. Mounting to the Spanish Fort is a must. While the fortress hill is not very high, the Spanish Fort offers a panoramic view of the whole city, the port, Riva and the Paklinski islands (or the Pakleni). The military significance of the Spanish Fort was more than obvious for the Venetians. For the visitors, the most exciting thing is to see the Adriatic archipelagoes, appearing like a string of emerald pearls scattered on the sparkling azure silk.

Summer is the best time to enjoy sunshine, beaches and nightlife in Hvar Town. The hillside and seafront resort hotels are open one after another along the coast to the west of the city. Another summer treasure on the island is lavender. If you want to see a purple sea of lavender, you must time your visit. Late June and early July are usually the best time. Since Hvar is a hilly island, lavender generally grows on the hillside. Lavender souvenirs are sold not only on the island but also in Split or Trogir.

Hvar Town is one of the most expensive touristic destinations in Dalmatia. A cup of coffee is 10-20% more expensive than one in Split. The supermarket near the bus station may help save some money.

Trogir in Summer and Winter

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

Buses run frequently between Split and Trogir. The one-hour ride makes Trogir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a popular destination for a one-day trip from Split.

The old city center of Trogir is located on a small islet. My first trip to this ancient city of over 2300 years’ history was in winter. I was fascinated by the Romanesque churches, the Renaissance palaces and the Baroque buildings when I was shuttling the streets and alleys of Trogir. Whenever I took a turn, I either found an elegantly carved door, an exquisite Gothic window and a prominent coat of arms; or run into a finely decorated courtyard, a charming balcony and a magnificent staircase. Trogir is simply like a museum of architecture full of treasures. The excitement of my last visit has stayed until today.

Trogir is a sleeping beauty in winter but a party girl in summer. The bazaar outside the city as well as the monuments, shops and restaurants inside the old city are bustling with life in summer. The scene is completely different from the tranquility and leisure in winter.

St. Lawrence’s Cathedral (Sveti Lovre in Croatian), located in the old city center of Trogir, borders the south side of the square John Paul II (Ivana Pavla II in Croatian). The cathedral’s bell tower is undoubtedly the most noticeable landmark in Trogir. In summertime, many tourists love to climb the bell tower for a full view of Trogir and the Kaštela Bay. While the bell tower is inaccessible in winter, there is no entrance fee for St. Lawrence’s Cathedral then.

The Romanesque portal of St. Lawrence’s Cathedral is another spot often crowded with visitors. The statues of Adam and Eve standing on the lions are guarding the door on either side. The inner arch depicts Jesus’ whole life from annunciation to resurrection. Seasonal daily activities, including hunting, fighting and playing, are also important themes on the portal of St. Lawrence’s Cathedral. 

Opposite to St. Lawrence’s Cathedral stand the city bell tower and the loggia. I am particularly fond of the two reliefs on the loggia wall. The relief “Viceroy on a Horse” is a masterpiece by Ivan Meštrović, Croatian most famous sculptor.  

The city hall on the other side of the plaza is an exquisite Renaissance building. I fell immediately in love with that Gothic staircase when I entered the courtyard last time. Most of the buildings facing the city hall are decorated with Venetian Gothic windows. These magnificent buildings used to be the residences of the noble families in Trogir.

Trogir’s esplanade (Riva) is not only a place for the local people to leisure but also a pier for tourists to go sailing. Nearly all Dalmatian towns have esplanades. It is mostly a matter of size. Compared with Riva in Split, Trogir’s esplanade is obviously a smaller version.    

Passing by the streets near the esplanade, we came across many seafood restaurants. I remember that these restaurants were all closed in winter. For our trip this time in summer, the showcases outside the restaurants displayed all kinds of fish, shrimps, crabs and seashells available for the day. While the great variety was enticing, the prices for some dishes could be astonishing.

Being the hometown of a remarkable singer, Trogir is also famous for Vinko Coce. Local people nickname him “Croatian Pavarotti” because of both his impressive voice and outstanding figure. As a famed singer popular for decades in Croatia, Vinko’s fans come from a wide spectrum of all ages. When I went to his live concert, I did find many families in the audience. Vinko sings many songs characteristic of the Dalmatian music traditions. Starting his singing career with klapa (a kind of a cappella popular in Dalmatia), Vinko, like almost all other Dalmatian singers, are enthusiastic at promoting their traditional music.

Trogir is a model of ancient Croatian urban settlement. If some hotels can be regarded as design hotels, Trogir can undoubtedly be considered a design city.