The Colorful Sinjska Alka in Croatia

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

Sinjska Alka was originated from a miraculous battle in 1715: 700 Sinj defenders protected their city against the siege of a Turkish army of 40,000-60,000 soldiers. On August 15, the Sinj soldiers achieved the most glorious feat in their history. The first Sunday of every August has been celebrated with Sinjska Alka in memory of this historic victory ever since.

Sinjska Alka is highly regarded in Croatia. It not only commemorates an important battle but also becomes the oldest festival in Croatian history. The chivalric legacy, picturesque ceremonies and colorful costumes have kept Sinjska Alka a rare reminder of the greatest chivalry tradition in Europe. The competition, officiated by senior government officials, is broadcasted live all over the country. Local celebrities and visitors from all over Europe go to Sinj to participate in the living heritage. We met a TV hostess when we shared the fun in Sinj.

“Alka” literally means “ring” and looks like a Mercedes Benz logo with a small ring in the center. The metal ring with two concentric circles and three bars in between is the target the knights have to strike with their 3-meter lances. Alka, only 13.17 cm in diameter in the outer circle, is hung in the air 3.32 meters above the ground whilst each knight rides at full speed for 160 meters to hit it. The judge determines the score when alka is taken from the lance. Hitting the inner circle (3.51 cm in diameter) earns 3 points, hitting the upper part between the two concentric circles score 2 points, hitting either of the remaining two segments between the two circles results in one point, and missing the target brings no score. The knight with the highest scores after three rounds of competition becomes the champion of the year.

The final of Alka takes place in the afternoon. When we arrived at a local tavern a little after 11:00 am, some tourists were already chatting and taking pictures with the local people dressed in traditional costumes. It is really hard to get a ticket for Alka. My husband was lucky enough to get a ticket with the help from his friends and watched the game in the auditorium once. But we did not get the tickets this time. Fortunately, a local friend of my husband owns a restaurant which stands right next to Alkarsko Trkaliste (the Alka Track). The terrace offered us a close look at the game. Being so well-located, the terrace attracted more and more people as the time for the final competition drew nearer. Tourists from all over Europe and other Croatian cities talked cheerfully while enjoying their beers. It was indeed a festive day.

Alka is special not just because of the game itself. The whole event still follows the chivalry tradition and ceremony which have lasted for hundreds of years. The knights are dressed in 18^th century costumes and accompanied by their own squires. These vigorous mustachioed squires march and lead the knights into the Alka Track. The game only begins until the procession line up and fire shots in front of the officiating guests. The squires do “serve” the knights in the game: helping the knights with everything they need and getting the lances ready for the game.

The winning knight, who becomes the hero of Sinj or even the whole country, not only returns to his hometown in glory but also goes down in history. The winner takes the tricolor Pennant for a victorious ride into the old city of Sinj, accepting a great ovation from the crowd on both sides of the main street. His name is recorded in golden letters in the Chronicle of Chivalrous Alkar (Tilting) Club. Antin Nikola Cerinić is the leading winner since the first record was entered in 1818. He won 12 times in 31 competitions between 1867 and 1900.

The champion has another important task: he is to fete all the participating knights. Having a knight winning the highest honor, the family members certainly try their best to complete this glorious mission.

Sudamja—A Feast Day in Split

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net)

The whole city of Split celebrates Sudamja, the feast day of the city’s patron saint, on May 7 every year.

Split’s patron saint St. Domnius (Sveti Duje in Croatian) was the first bishop of Salona (i.e. today’s Solin) in the Roman Empire period. He served in the position for two decades (284-304 A.D.) during the reign of Diocletian. The Roman Emperor was well-known for going against Christianity and finally ordered to behead St. Domnius and seven Christians in the Salona Amphitheatre.

St. Domnius was originally buried in the cemetery north of Salona. But the church did not think it safe to keep his body in Dalmatia. So part of his body was carried to Rome in 642 A.D. When Salona was destroyed eight years later, St. Domnius’ remaining body was placed in Diocletian’s mausoleum. The great irony was that the octagonal mausoleum even became the oldest cathedral in Split to be named after St. Domnius.

Sudamja is an important festival in Split. A great festival like this never lasts for just one day in Croatia. The official program shows that the whole celebration starts at the end of April and continues for the next two weeks. The Mass is indispensable. The cathedral can only accommodate dozens of people for the Sunday Mass. Hundreds of people gather all around the cathedral during Sudamja. Even the Diocletian peristyle is crowded with people.

Music is one of the most important cultural traditions in Dalmatia. Concerts are held at the waterfront promenade Riva every night for celebrating Sudamja. Other interesting events include the semi-marathon around Marjan, rowing competition, poetry night, children’s procession and a variety of exhibitions. 

The procession on the feast day is certainly the climax of the whole celebration. St. Domnius’ relics are taken out of the cathedral the day before during a ceremony. The procession goes through the old city of Split after the Mass on the morning of May 7. People dressed in traditional costumes, together with military and government officers follow the priests along Riva. What is the best treat after the procession? A feast, of course! Free lunch is ready at the neighboring fish market for the joyful crowds.

Riva is turned into an open-air bazaar in the afternoon of May 7. It is the time for eating, drinking, singing, dancing and laughing. Those fond of traditional Croatian handcrafts can even enjoy a treasure hunt in the bazaar. The last performance is an outdoor concert, where thousands of people jam the waterfront promenade at night. Sudamja is finally drawn to a spectacular close with a colorful display of fireworks above Riva.

The Most Famous Croatian Sculptor - Ivan Meštrović

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net)

Quite a lot of places in Split deserve a visit – Diocletian’s palace and peristyle, St. Domnius’ Cathedral and the bell tower, the Archaeological Museum, Marjan Forest, Riva and the old city itself. The marble villa halfway up Marjan is one of my favorites. 

Despite not having a pediment on its top, the villa still reminds me of an ancient Greek temple because of the row of ionic columns at the front door. The original owner of the villa was Ivan Meštrović, the most famous sculptor in Croatian history. The Meštrović Gallery as is seen today has come into being because of Meštrović’s generous donation.

The balcony on the second floor is most appealing. Visitors can view the shimmering Adriatic Sea under the sun from this spacious balcony. If Meštrović had survived until the Croatian Independence Day, he might have wished to return to the very villa he had designed.

Opposite to the Meštrović Gallery stands Kastelet-Crikvine Complex, a 16th century residence belonging to the Capogrosso-Kavanjin family before Meštrović bought and restored it. The Holy Crucifix Church within the residential complex displays 28 wooden reliefs created by Meštrović. This series of wooden reliefs depicted the life of Jesus in a modern fashion. Taking Meštrović over forty years, the wooden sculpture is regarded as the most outstanding religious works in the 20th century. The centerpiece of the series “Jesus on the Cross” has left us with a story. When Meštrović was looking for a piece of oak in Geneva of Switzerland for this sculpture, he found that all quality timbers had been used to make rifle butts. Meštrović finally found a piece of oak that had been considered rotten and unsuitable for a gun. The lumberjacks told Meštrović that the oak came from Croatia. Meštrović finally returned that piece of oak back home in another form.

Meštrović was not only one of the most outstanding artists in the 20^th century but also a legendary man. Meštrović became famous after winning the first place award for sculpture in the international exhibit in Rome in 1911. He advocated the independence of the southern Slav from the Austro-Hungarian Empire before the First World War. Meštrović’s devotion to political activities led to his exile in Italy in World War I. Ustaše, who supported the Italian Fascists, imprisoned Meštrović during the Second World War. Refusing to live under a communist regime, Meštrović fled to the United States when Yugoslavia was founded.

Meštrović never forgot his Croatian root despite holding a US citizenship. He bequeathed the villa in Split, the house and atelier complex in Zagreb, the mausoleum the Most Holy Redeemer Church in his hometown Otavice, as well as over 400 pieces of sculptures to his motherland. Upon Meštrović’s death in 1962, his family buried him in the Most Holy Redeemer Church in Otavice in accordance with his last wish.

Meštrović’s sculptures are exhibited in major European and American art museums. His works can be found in almost all major cities in Croatia. The bronze statue “History of the Croats” has even become a symbol of modern Croatia. Those who like to know more about Meštrović’s life and works should not miss the following places when traveling to Croatia:

The Meštrović Gallery in Split

The Kaštelet-Crikvine Complex in Split

The Most Holy Redeemer Church in Otavice

The mausoleum of the Račić Family in Cavtat (near Dubrovnik)

The Meštrović Atelier in Zagreb

The Ivan Meštrović Gallery in Vrpolje