The Best Known Holiday Destination in Croatia: Hvar

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

The name “Hvar” can be confusing to tourists. There is a Hvar Town on Hvar Island, the longest island off the coast of Split. Hvar Town is Croatian most famous holiday destination so often mentioned. The oldest town on Hvar Island, Stari Grad (meaning old city), is never lacking tourists although the city may sound less familiar.

Croatian business owners whose income depends on tourists must make good use of the peak season, which may last for four to five months, to secure their living for the whole year. In Hvar Town, on the island of Brac or in the old city of Trogir, many restaurants and souvenir shops are closed during low season. However, Hvar Town is still a hot choice for many retirees who want to spend a serene and warm winter.

Hvar Town can be reached by taking a 2-hour ferry from Split, followed by a bus ride of 40 minutes. The bus station is very close to the city center. The square Hvar Pjaca, where St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Sveti Stjepana in Croatian) stands, comes immediately into sight. For a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, the biggest square in Dalmatia is indeed big. Hvar was once a flourishing Venetian city. Most of the buildings around the plaza highlight the Renaissance architectural pursuit of beauty in simplicity, harmony, proportion and symmetry. The whole Hvar Pjaca also gives a feeling of simplicity, elegance, succinctness and harmony. Being protected by the Venetian Empire for almost 500 years, Hvar is embellished by the Venetian legacy of public buildings, fortress and town walls. The Provveditore Palace, the former palace of the Venetian head of the island, previously stood on the west end of Hvar Pjaca. The only remains now are part of the old loggia and the clock tower. The two reliefs of the Venetian lion can still be seen clearly on the wall. Being integrated into the Hotel Palace, which was built on the old site of the Provveditore Palace in 1903, the new loggia, with its exquisite neo-Renaissance decorations, now serves as the reception hall of the hotel.

The esplanade (Riva) and the cozy outdoor cafes are indispensable in any Dalmatian city. Hvar’s esplanade also serves as a dock for boats and yachts. When we walked from Riva to the west side of the city, a lot of boat charterers were busy doing business. Some boatmen even indicated that a one-day tour could cover two to three nearby islands.

Looking back from Riva, we found the Spanish Fort (Tvrđava Španjolo) taking a commanding position on top of the hill. Mounting to the Spanish Fort is a must. While the fortress hill is not very high, the Spanish Fort offers a panoramic view of the whole city, the port, Riva and the Paklinski islands (or the Pakleni). The military significance of the Spanish Fort was more than obvious for the Venetians. For the visitors, the most exciting thing is to see the Adriatic archipelagoes, appearing like a string of emerald pearls scattered on the sparkling azure silk.

Summer is the best time to enjoy sunshine, beaches and nightlife in Hvar Town. The hillside and seafront resort hotels are open one after another along the coast to the west of the city. Another summer treasure on the island is lavender. If you want to see a purple sea of lavender, you must time your visit. Late June and early July are usually the best time. Since Hvar is a hilly island, lavender generally grows on the hillside. Lavender souvenirs are sold not only on the island but also in Split or Trogir.

Hvar Town is one of the most expensive touristic destinations in Dalmatia. A cup of coffee is 10-20% more expensive than one in Split. The supermarket near the bus station may help save some money.