Trogir in Summer and Winter

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

Buses run frequently between Split and Trogir. The one-hour ride makes Trogir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a popular destination for a one-day trip from Split.

The old city center of Trogir is located on a small islet. My first trip to this ancient city of over 2300 years’ history was in winter. I was fascinated by the Romanesque churches, the Renaissance palaces and the Baroque buildings when I was shuttling the streets and alleys of Trogir. Whenever I took a turn, I either found an elegantly carved door, an exquisite Gothic window and a prominent coat of arms; or run into a finely decorated courtyard, a charming balcony and a magnificent staircase. Trogir is simply like a museum of architecture full of treasures. The excitement of my last visit has stayed until today.

Trogir is a sleeping beauty in winter but a party girl in summer. The bazaar outside the city as well as the monuments, shops and restaurants inside the old city are bustling with life in summer. The scene is completely different from the tranquility and leisure in winter.

St. Lawrence’s Cathedral (Sveti Lovre in Croatian), located in the old city center of Trogir, borders the south side of the square John Paul II (Ivana Pavla II in Croatian). The cathedral’s bell tower is undoubtedly the most noticeable landmark in Trogir. In summertime, many tourists love to climb the bell tower for a full view of Trogir and the Kaštela Bay. While the bell tower is inaccessible in winter, there is no entrance fee for St. Lawrence’s Cathedral then.

The Romanesque portal of St. Lawrence’s Cathedral is another spot often crowded with visitors. The statues of Adam and Eve standing on the lions are guarding the door on either side. The inner arch depicts Jesus’ whole life from annunciation to resurrection. Seasonal daily activities, including hunting, fighting and playing, are also important themes on the portal of St. Lawrence’s Cathedral. 

Opposite to St. Lawrence’s Cathedral stand the city bell tower and the loggia. I am particularly fond of the two reliefs on the loggia wall. The relief “Viceroy on a Horse” is a masterpiece by Ivan Meštrović, Croatian most famous sculptor.  

The city hall on the other side of the plaza is an exquisite Renaissance building. I fell immediately in love with that Gothic staircase when I entered the courtyard last time. Most of the buildings facing the city hall are decorated with Venetian Gothic windows. These magnificent buildings used to be the residences of the noble families in Trogir.

Trogir’s esplanade (Riva) is not only a place for the local people to leisure but also a pier for tourists to go sailing. Nearly all Dalmatian towns have esplanades. It is mostly a matter of size. Compared with Riva in Split, Trogir’s esplanade is obviously a smaller version.    

Passing by the streets near the esplanade, we came across many seafood restaurants. I remember that these restaurants were all closed in winter. For our trip this time in summer, the showcases outside the restaurants displayed all kinds of fish, shrimps, crabs and seashells available for the day. While the great variety was enticing, the prices for some dishes could be astonishing.

Being the hometown of a remarkable singer, Trogir is also famous for Vinko Coce. Local people nickname him “Croatian Pavarotti” because of both his impressive voice and outstanding figure. As a famed singer popular for decades in Croatia, Vinko’s fans come from a wide spectrum of all ages. When I went to his live concert, I did find many families in the audience. Vinko sings many songs characteristic of the Dalmatian music traditions. Starting his singing career with klapa (a kind of a cappella popular in Dalmatia), Vinko, like almost all other Dalmatian singers, are enthusiastic at promoting their traditional music.

Trogir is a model of ancient Croatian urban settlement. If some hotels can be regarded as design hotels, Trogir can undoubtedly be considered a design city.