Quite a lot of places in Split deserve a visit – Diocletian’s palace and peristyle, St. Domnius’ Cathedral and the bell tower, the Archaeological Museum , Marjan Forest , Riva and the old city itself. The marble villa halfway up Marjan is one of my favorites.
Despite not having a pediment on its top, the villa still reminds me of an ancient Greek temple because of the row of ionic columns at the front door. The original owner of the villa was Ivan Meštrović, the most famous sculptor in Croatian history. The Meštrović Gallery as is seen today has come into being because of Meštrović’s generous donation.
The balcony on the second floor is most appealing. Visitors can view the shimmering Adriatic Sea under the sun from this spacious balcony. If Meštrović had survived until the Croatian Independence Day, he might have wished to return to the very villa he had designed.
Opposite to the Meštrović Gallery stands Kastelet-Crikvine Complex, a 16th century residence belonging to the Capogrosso-Kavanjin family before Meštrović bought and restored it. The Holy Crucifix Church within the residential complex displays 28 wooden reliefs created by Meštrović. This series of wooden reliefs depicted the life of Jesus in a modern fashion. Taking Meštrović over forty years, the wooden sculpture is regarded as the most outstanding religious works in the 20th century. The centerpiece of the series “Jesus on the Cross” has left us with a story. When Meštrović was looking for a piece of oak in Geneva of Switzerland for this sculpture, he found that all quality timbers had been used to make rifle butts. Meštrović finally found a piece of oak that had been considered rotten and unsuitable for a gun. The lumberjacks told Meštrović that the oak came from Croatia . Meštrović finally returned that piece of oak back home in another form.
Meštrović was not only one of the most outstanding artists in the 20th century but also a legendary man. Meštrović became famous after winning the first place award for sculpture in the international exhibit in Rome in 1911. He advocated the independence of the southern Slav from the Austro-Hungarian Empire before the First World War. Meštrović’s devotion to political activities led to his exile in Italy in World War I. Ustaše, who supported the Italian Fascists, imprisoned Meštrović during the Second World War. Refusing to live under a communist regime, Meštrović fled to the United States when Yugoslavia was founded.
Meštrović never forgot his Croatian root despite holding a US citizenship. He bequeathed the villa in Split , the house and atelier complex in Zagreb , the mausoleum the Most Holy Redeemer Church in his hometown Otavice, as well as over 400 pieces of sculptures to his motherland. Upon Meštrović’s death in 1962, his family buried him in the Most Holy Redeemer Church in Otavice in accordance with his last wish.
Meštrović’s sculptures are exhibited in major European and American art museums. His works can be found in almost all major cities in Croatia . The bronze statue “History of the Croats” has even become a symbol of modern Croatia . Those who like to know more about Meštrović’s life and works should not miss the following places when traveling to Croatia :
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