Sudamja—A Feast Day in Split

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net)

The whole city of Split celebrates Sudamja, the feast day of the city’s patron saint, on May 7 every year.

Split’s patron saint St. Domnius (Sveti Duje in Croatian) was the first bishop of Salona (i.e. today’s Solin) in the Roman Empire period. He served in the position for two decades (284-304 A.D.) during the reign of Diocletian. The Roman Emperor was well-known for going against Christianity and finally ordered to behead St. Domnius and seven Christians in the Salona Amphitheatre.

St. Domnius was originally buried in the cemetery north of Salona. But the church did not think it safe to keep his body in Dalmatia. So part of his body was carried to Rome in 642 A.D. When Salona was destroyed eight years later, St. Domnius’ remaining body was placed in Diocletian’s mausoleum. The great irony was that the octagonal mausoleum even became the oldest cathedral in Split to be named after St. Domnius.

Sudamja is an important festival in Split. A great festival like this never lasts for just one day in Croatia. The official program shows that the whole celebration starts at the end of April and continues for the next two weeks. The Mass is indispensable. The cathedral can only accommodate dozens of people for the Sunday Mass. Hundreds of people gather all around the cathedral during Sudamja. Even the Diocletian peristyle is crowded with people.

Music is one of the most important cultural traditions in Dalmatia. Concerts are held at the waterfront promenade Riva every night for celebrating Sudamja. Other interesting events include the semi-marathon around Marjan, rowing competition, poetry night, children’s procession and a variety of exhibitions. 

The procession on the feast day is certainly the climax of the whole celebration. St. Domnius’ relics are taken out of the cathedral the day before during a ceremony. The procession goes through the old city of Split after the Mass on the morning of May 7. People dressed in traditional costumes, together with military and government officers follow the priests along Riva. What is the best treat after the procession? A feast, of course! Free lunch is ready at the neighboring fish market for the joyful crowds.

Riva is turned into an open-air bazaar in the afternoon of May 7. It is the time for eating, drinking, singing, dancing and laughing. Those fond of traditional Croatian handcrafts can even enjoy a treasure hunt in the bazaar. The last performance is an outdoor concert, where thousands of people jam the waterfront promenade at night. Sudamja is finally drawn to a spectacular close with a colorful display of fireworks above Riva.