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Valeria Teo is a writer, a travel planner and an owner of private accommodation. Her passion for travel has taken her to nearly 30 countries since 1992. The trip to Croatia in 2007 has brought her a husband and her first Chinese novel. Valeria has published two Chinese novel sets in Croatia and a collection of Chinese essays. Besides being a regular blogger for the Hong Kong travel site UTravel and GOtrip, she writes for various organizations and online publications, in both English and Chinese. Having appeared in two Hong Kong on-line radio travel programmes featuring Croatia, Valeria was also consulted by one Taiwanese and one Hong Kong TV station for shooting travel programmes in and around Croatia. Her particular connection with Croatia has led her to create Croatia Independent Travellers (www.croatia.com.hk) with two partners. The on-line platform specializes in travel planning and custom-made tours for those who want to create unforgettable travel experiences of their own. In the summer of 2014, Valeria realized her long-term dream of running her own private accommodation in Split.
Born in Hong Kong, Valeria now resides in Split, Croatia.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

The Most Famous Beach in Dalmatia - Zlatni rat

(The article was first published on ToCroatia.net.)

Zlatni rat, the "Golden Horn", is located near Bol on the island Brač, which is only half an hour by ferry from Split. Most islanders were either fishermen or farmers before tourism became the main industry. Brač is also famous for its stones. The materials for most of the stone houses and churches in Dalmatia were quarried from Brač.   



Although Bol is the oldest settlement on Brač, ferries heading for Brač do not take you directly to Bol but Supetar, the largest town on the island. The so-called “largest town” has some 3,000 residents only. Bol is only half as big. It comes as no surprise that ferries call at Supetar instead of Bol. However, buses from Supetar to Bol are well connected with the ferries in summer: a bus departs for Bol about 20 minutes after a ferry arrives at Supetar.

Supetar itself delivers all is needed in a beach resort. Some holidaymakers would rather not spend an extra hour for getting to Bol. If it is your first summer visit to the island Brač, the unique landscape of Zlatni rat is unlikely to disappoint you.

When our bus arrived at Bol, a sightseeing train was waiting next to the bus station, ready to take the passengers to the beach. Thinking that it was some usual touristic trick, we boarded the train without a second thought anyway as the fare was only 10 Kuna per person. But we were in fact blessed for reaching the beach in the most desirable comfort. The 10-minute ride not only went up and down a slope, it was totally under the heat of the fireball.

Zlatni rat is a pebble beach. It was difficult for us to walk on the shore as well as in the water.  The pebbles were even heated up under the sun. Those lying on the pebbles were indeed sunbathing, literally. The swimming shoes so popular in Croatia could have rescued us: light, anti-slippery and protecting the feet against injury. If you go swimming in Krka National Park or on the island Hvar, the swimming shoes are definitely your saviors on the rocky riverbed or seabed.


There is no better way to get cooled than jumping into the sea. The water around Zlatni rat is so clear that it is transparent. Different shades of blue and green blend into layers of lustrous ribbons farther away from the shore. I simply could not take my eyes off the magical glitter of the azure sea.

Croatian beaches are the paradises to spot handsome guys and pretty girls. Zlatni rat is not a nude beach, but some girls may sunbathe topless. Croatian people have no idea about "skin whitening" at all. They consider a tanned face and body the true beauty. I have never seen any "white" Croatian star, artist or model. Croatian people willingly befriend Apollo. When a Japanese tourist rested on a street in Split with a sunbonnet that looked like a welding mask, her photo appeared on the Split newspaper the next day.

Although I did not detest the sun or use any sun block, I was not crazy for sunbathing as the Europeans were. The sunniest province in Croatia deserved her fame. I did feel a bit dizzy after staying too long under the sun. If it means a lot for your skin to stay white, you’d better apply the skin whitening products thoroughly all over the body including the toes and thenars.

If you want to stay away from both the cool water and the fiery sun, the pine forest is the best place for a rest. In the summertime, it may take you quite a while to find a spot under the shade as Zlatni rat is crowded with holidaymakers. Further uphill from the pine forest is the scenic viewpoint any photographer should not miss. 


Zlatni rat is truly a touristic beach because all the water sports needed to make a great beach resort are available - canoeing, water biking, water-skiing, windsurfing, snorkeling, diving, yacht sailing etc. All the charges typical of a beach resort are also inevitable beach lockers, showers, sunbath chairs and parasols etc. In fact, we hardly met Croatian vacationers in Zlatni rat as they preferred equally nice beaches free of charge along the Adriatic coast. Bol impressed us with the summer holiday mood – relaxing, pleasing, leisure and carefree. The prices of the local restaurants, cafes and various recreational places reflected the resort styles as well. However, we found the expenses in Bol generally less expensive than in Hvar.

If you wish to have an active holiday away from the hustle and bustle of the city, staying in the old town of Bol will not let you down.

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